Paris Fashion Week showcasing 107 houses over 9 days
Paris is the center of the global luxury industry this week, and Tuesday marks the first big day of ready-to-wear shows. Powerhouses Saint Laurent and Dior are among the 107 brands that will showcase their Spring/Summer 2023 collections at Paris Fashion Week. Here are some of the highlights so far:
Dior’s nostalgic palace
Guests including Natalie Portman, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Rosamund Pike and Emma Raducano looked curiously at the decaying palace that had been restored inside a Tuileries Garden annex. Vines flowed through Renaissance doors, over faded wooden cornices and worn columns to evoke the mystery of a bygone era.
Based on Dior’s headquarters on rue Montaigne, the collection was also inspired by Catherine de’ Medici, the Renaissance queen who moved to the Tuileries in the 16th century. He built famous gardens and a palace on this site, which has since been destroyed. Catherine also brought Italian Burano heels, corsets and lace to the French court – chosen by Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in this thoughtful display of 84 looks, heavy on black and white.
Contortion dancers performed alongside ribbed corsets, high Renaissance waists and lace whips encircling the dusty palatial runway.
Despite contemporary features such as glossy fabrics and functional fasteners, Chiuri’s aesthetic rarely strayed far from the history books. It made for the strongest Dior show of the season.
80’s Renaissance Heavy Vests (15) The 80’s rolled over a skirt topped with a black “chain” vest that could have been worn to the YMCA in the 80’s (19). A little black dress was gloriously anachronistic with a skirt that flared out like the bodice of a full skirt, but held back with sporty cuffs.
Butters stomping sneakers
Sartorial met aquatic at Botter’s joint show on Tuesday with crisp collars, boxy jackets and poetic cut-outs. They adorned colorful suits.
Embossed sneakers—again in vivid colors—contrast with trendy suits that sometimes have marble stripes that evoke the tentacles of sea creatures.
Distressed double-jeans continued the underwater vibe on a male model, who landed on the runway with a blue knit mask over his entire face and clear globules on his hands. He felt as if he had been attacked by a jellyfish. Or Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s show could be another examination of the coronavirus pandemic.
VAQUERA brings the stars and stripes to Paris
A spark of American funk graced Paris for Fashion Week on Monday — a day reserved for up-and-comers. Vaquera, who rose to fame five years ago in New York wearing a huge US flag dress with a huge train, crossed the pond this season and was a highlight.
Designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee combined their edgy styles with looks that moved in a more commercial direction for spring and summer. Distressed denim, the punk exuberance of Vivienne Westwood’s heyday and a lashing of Americana references—like a loose, shiny biker jacket—defined the display of 31 often marketable looks.
The US flag returned to the runway, here as a flat shawl that led to the legendary parachute skirt.
Lancome’s life is beautiful
The first major party of the season celebrated one of the most iconic perfume and cosmetics brands in Paris: Lancome. A stone staircase draped in colored light led VIP guests, including model Naomi Lenoir, to the Petit Palace venue on the banks of the Seine on Monday night.
This season, Lancôme, owned by L’Oréal, celebrated the 10th anniversary of its best-selling French perfume “La Vie Est Belle,” or “Life is Beautiful.” Victoria’s Secret model Sara Sampaio also held this party in a black mini with frills at the famous art museum.
This story was originally published September 27, 2022, 6:12 am